The following programme can only be attended by those that have registered by 9 September.
Programme Overview
Friday, 13 September
| Time | Session | |
| 8:45 | Registration and Coffee | |
| 9:15 | Welcome | |
| 9:30 | Friday Keynote | |
| 10:20 | Textiles and Architecture | |
| 11:10 | Coffee Break | |
| 11:30 | Textiles and Architecture (continued) | |
| 12:45 | Lunch | |
| 13:30 | Critical Textiles | |
| 14:45 | Coffee Break | |
| 15:00 | Critical Textiles (continued) | |
| 16:15 | Break | |
| 16:30 | Panel Discussions | |
| 17:30 | Exhibition Reception |
Saturday, 14 September
| Time | Session | |
| 9:00 | Registration and Coffee | |
| 9:30 | Saturday Keynote | |
| 10:20 | Textile Materialities and Processes | |
| 11:10 | Coffee Break | |
| 11:30 | Textile Materialities and Processes (continued) | |
| 12:45 | Lunch | |
| 13:30 | Textiles and Interaction | |
| 15:10 | Coffee Break | |
| 15:30 | Panel Discussions | |
| 16:20 | Closing Discussion | |
| 16:45 | Conference Close |
/// Friday Keynote – Juan P. Hinestroza
Biography
Juan P. Hinestroza, a U.S. Fulbright Scholar, is a tenured Associate Professor of Fiber Science and directs The Textiles Nanotechnology Laboratory at the College of Human Ecology of Cornell University in Ithaca, NY. Professor Hinestroza obtained a Ph.D. from the Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering at Tulane University and B.Sc. in Chemical Engineering from Universidad Industrial de Santander. Prior to pursuing doctoral studies, Professor Hinestroza worked as a process control engineer for The Dow Chemical Company, he is the co-founder of 3 start-up companies, and has served as consultant to major Fortune 50 corporations in the field of smart and interactive textiles and fibers. Professor Hinestroza works on understanding fundamental phenomena at the nanoscale that are of relevance to Fiber and Polymer Science. Hinestroza has received over 8.4 MM USD in research funding (Federal and State agencies as well as Industrial Consortiums) for his pioneering work in exploring new pathways for creating multifunctional fibers via manipulation of nanoscale phenomena.
Professor Hinestroza has been the recipient of a myriad of awards including the National Science Foundation CAREER Award, the Young Investigator Award from NYSTAR and the Educator of the Year Award from the Society of Professional Hispanic Engineers, The Humanitarian Award from the National Textile Center and the Academic Innovation Award from Cornell Class of 72. Professor Hinestroza has delivered invited lectures worldwide at Universities and Research Centers in over 43 countries and has received visiting scientist fellowships from The Chubu Foundation for Science and Technology in Japan, The National Council for Scientific and Technological Development in Brazil, The Swiss National Science Foundation in Switzerland and the Singapore University of Technology and Design.
Professor Hinestroza’s scientific work has been featured in Nature Nanotechnology, MRS Bulletin, Materials Today, C&E News, National Geographic, ASEE Prism as well as mainstream media outlets such as CNN, Wired, TechReview, The Guardian, Popular Science, ABC News, NYTimes, Reuters, PBS, NPR and BBC. In addition to his scientific endeavors, Professor Hinestroza and his research group are actively involved in community outreach activities aimed at increasing the number of members from underrepresented minority groups in Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics as well as engaging senior citizens in collaborative and inter-generational learning experiences.
Keynote: Teaching Cotton New Tricks
In this talk, we will discuss examples of several strategies that our laboratory has pioneered to modify the properties of cotton. We have made possible cotton fibers that conduct electricity, kill bacteria, change colours and store complex information. We will discuss how metal-organic frameworks MOFs can be used to create textiles capable of sensing and trapping toxic gases, insecticides and other value-added compounds by judiciously controlling the interactions between the MOF and the functional groups on the surface of the natural fibers. We will also show how to create colour using MOFs constructed using several metals that emit colour under UV radiation as well as the use of panchromatic modifications to MOF structures in order to create colour without the need of pigments or dyes. These examples demonstrate how an “old” natural fiber such as cotton can be used as an engineering material with unique functionalities while preserving its comfort, flexibility and water absorbency properties. The scalable strategies developed by our group create multifunctional cellulosic materials and can be replicated in many other cellulose-based natural fibers.
References
1 Kim. M., Otal, E., Hinestroza, JP., Cellulose meets reticular chemistry: interactions between cellulosic substrates and metal–organic frameworks, Cellulose (2019), 1-15
2 Otal,E., Kim, M., Calvo,ME, Karvonen, L, Fabregas,I, Sierra, CA., Hinestroza, JP. A panchromatic modification of the light absorption spectra of metal–organic frameworks (2016), 52,(40) 6665-6668
3 Ozer, R., Hinestroza, JP., One-step growth of isoreticular luminescent metal-organic frameworks on cotton fibers, RSC Advances (2015), 5 (20), 15198-15204
4 Rodriguez, H., Hinestroza, JP., Ochoa-Puentes, C., Sierra, C. Soto, C. Antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli of Cu-BTC (MOF-199) metal?organic framework immobilized onto cellulosic fibers Journal of Applied Polymer Science (2014), 131,19, 40815-40820
5 Silva da Pinto, M., Sierra-Avila, C., Hinestroza, JP., In situ synthesis of a Cu-BTC metal–organic framework (MOF 199) onto cellulosic fibrous substrates: cotton, (2012), Cellulose, 19,5, 1771-1779
/// Textiles and Architecture
Session Chair – Aurélie Mossé (ENSAD Paris, FR)
10:20 – On Textile Farming: The Interior as an Ecosystem
by Svenja Keune
10:45 – Introducing Fabric Materiality in architectural fibre composites
by Arielle Blonder
Session Chair – Delia Dumitrescu (University of Borås, SE)
11:30 – Productive Draping: The Making of and Research Behind The Performative Curtaining Project
by Deborah Schneiderman, Annie Coggan
11:55 – Wall Curtain. On The Idea of the Soft within the Digital and Fabrication Realms
by Mette Ramsgaard Thomsen, Danica Pišteková
12:20 – Les Petites Affiches : textilisation of architectural memory through the transformation of rubble
by Anna Saint Pierre, Jean-François Bassereau, Aurélie Mossé
/// Critical Textiles
Session Chair – Fiona Curran (Royal College of Art, UK)
13:30 – Envisioning Value-Rich Design for IoT Wearables
by Caroline McMillan
13:55 – New Materiality in Intimate Care
by Teresa Almeida
14:20 – Towards a Postphenomenological Approach to Wearable Technology through Design Journeys
by Pauline van Dongen, Ron Wakkary, Oscar Tomico, Stephan Wensveen
Session Chair – Oscar Tomico (ELISAVA Design and Engineering School Barcelona, ES / TU Eindhoven, NL)
15:00 – Smart Textiles and Clothing: An Opportunity or a Threat for Sustainability?
by Gozde Goncu-Berk
15:25 – From Rag Picking to Riches: Fashion Education meets Textile Waste
by Katherine Townsend, Emma Prince, Alison Escott, Gill Barker
15:50 – WEAR Sustain (Wearable technologists Engage with Artists for Responsible innovation): Sustainability Strategy Toolkit
by Florian Sametinger, Camille Baker, Heritiana Ranaivoson, Nick Bryan-Kinns
/// Panel Discussions
16:30 – Panel Discussion on Textiles and Architecture led by Delia Dumitrescu and Aurélie Mossé
17:00 – Panel Discussion on Critical Textiles led by Fiona Curran, Tincuta Heinzel, and Oscar Tomico
/// Saturday Keynote – Ellen Harlizius-Klück
Biography
Ellen Harlizius-Klück is Principal Investigator of the ERC-Consolidator Grant Project PENELOPE: A Study of Weaving as Technical Mode of Existence, situated at the Research Institute of the History of Technology and Science at Deutsches Museum, Munich. Educated as mathematician and artists, she did her PhD in Philosophy on Weaving as episteme in a dialogue by Plato. From 2002 to 2006, she held a professorship in textile studies at the University of Osnabrück. Later she went with a Marie Curie Fellowship to the Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen. She received an AHRC Digital Transformation Award together with Alex McLean for the project Weaving Codes – Coding Weaves.
Keynote – Ancient Weaving and the Digital Interface: A New Method in Textile Research
The role of weaving for the development of theoretical concepts is underestimated, probably because we perceive weaving as a minor craft with little technological challenge and impact. Where technological progress is measured in terms of gaining time from dull and tedious repetitive tasks, weaving appears to be the archetype of such repetitive work and thus as the more technological the faster it goes. The team of the PENELOPE project addresses this framing of perception by presenting ancient weaving as the earliest binary and digital technology. In explicating the mathematical and computing principles invoked in weaving, we furthermore explore the potential of weaving to engage tacit knowledge that is necessary to make technical and aesthetic choices in coding. By this, we argue for an alternative history of digital art.
The method we explore in our interdisciplinary team follows an advice given by Gilbert Simondon in his famous book on the mode of existence of technical objects. With reference to understanding an adding device built by the mathematician Blaise Pascal, Simondon writes: “To understand Pascal is to reconstruct a machine identical to his with one’s own hands without copying it, even transposing it where possible to an electronic adding device, so as to have to reinvent it by way of actualizing it, rather than reproducing Pascal’s intellectual and operational schemas.” (Simondon 2017, 152)
So we try to understand the warp-weighted loom technology by transposing it into a series of coding devices not only following Simondon’s idea expressed along the device of Pascal, but also referring to his idea of information theory. To Simondon, “information theory is an inter-scientific theory that enables the systematization of scientific concepts as much as the systematization of the schematisms of various technics; information theory mustn’t be considered as a technics among technics; in reality it is a thinking that acts as mediator between the various technics on the one hand, between the various sciences on the other, and finally between the sciences and technics.” (Simondon 2017, 155)
Presentation of PENELOPE Project
The objective of the ERC PENELOPE project (ERC Consolidator Grant no. 682711) is to develop a theory of weaving as part of a deep history and epistemology for digital technology. The PENELOPE team consists of an interdisciplinary mixture of scholars and artists: Alex McLean (Live Coder), Giovanni Fanfani (Classical philologist), Annapurna Mamidipudi (Science and technology studies), Ellen Harlizius-Klück (philosophy, mathematics, and textile/visual art.
For practical and technical investigations, we established a PENELOPE laboratory in the Museum for Plaster Casts of Classical Sculptures, Munich. This laboratory is open to the public and consists of two warp-weighted looms, loom equipment and tools as well as the pattern matrices, some Penelopean robots and a live-codeable loom for demonstrations. The digital tools are part of our novel methodology and help us to explore ancient weaving technology and its patterning conditions.
/// Textile Materialities and Processes
Session Chair – Berit Greinke (Berlin University of the Arts, DE)
10:20 – Inflatable actuators based on machine embroidery
by Bruna Goveia Da Rocha, Oscar Tomico, Daniel Tetteroo, Panos Markopoulos
10:45 – TEXTILE PROTOTYPING LAB – A Platform and Open Laboratory for the Promotion of Open Innovation and Networking between Research, Design and Industry
by Zane Berzina, Essi Johanna Glomb, Sara Diaz Rodriguez, Anna Große, Malte von Krshiwoblozki, Heiko Wolf, Daniel Heltzel
Session Chair – Lewis Jones (Loughborough University, UK)
11:30 – Exploring a Place-Based Approach to Developing New Materials for Sustainable Futures: Natural Fibre Composites in New Zealand
by Faith Kane, Peter Brorens, Marie Joo Le Guen, Angela Kilford, Tanya Ruka
11:55 – Environmental sustainability of e-textile products approached by makers and manufacturers
by Paula Veske, Kristi Kuusk, Marina Toeters, Barbro Scholz
12:20 – From smart textile to on demand, locally fabricated design
by Zoe Romano
/// Textiles and Interaction
Session Chair – Afroditi Psarra (University of Washington Seattle, USA)
13:30 – Collaborative Innovation: Reflections on Research for Smart Textiles in a Theatre and Performance Context
by Sara Robertson, Sarah Taylor, Joanna Bletcher
13:55 – Light my elbows: a cycling jacket incorporating electronic yarn
by Dorothy Hardy, Katherine Townsend, Matholo Kgatuke, Eloise Salter, Tina Downes, Karen Harrigan, Susan Allcock, Tilak Dias
14: 20 – Sonic Flock; Crowdsourcing, Exhibiting and Gifting Textile Birds for Wellbeing
by Lucy Robertson, Lim Chris, Moncur Wendy
14:45 – Touch Acoustics: Reflections on Crafting a Sonic, Textile Interface
by Lucie Hernandez
/// Panel Discussions
15:30 – Panel Discussion on Textile Materialities and Processes led by Lewis Jones and Faith Cane
15:55 – Panel Discussion on Textiles and Interactions led by Irene Posch, Afroditi Psarra, and Rebecca Stewart